A simple skincare ingredient dictionary by SADE. Here we translate skincare science into everyday language so you can use products with confidence. Learn what each ingredient does, who it’s best for, and where you’ll find it in our formulas.
Vitamin B3
What it is: A multi-tasking water-soluble vitamin.
What it does: Supports natural ceramide production for a stronger barrier, balances oil, refines the look of pores, and softens visible redness/uneven tone over time.
Best for: Oily/combination, dullness, uneven tone.
In SADE: CloudBarrier; Glow Veil SPF 50+
FYI: lays well with most actives; introduce gradually if you’re sensitive.
Cica; Madecassoside/Asiaticoside fractions; Gotu Kola
What it is: A calming botanical rich in triterpenes.
What it does: Visibly reduces redness/“heat,” supports barrier repair after cleansing or actives, and leaves skin quietly hydrated.
Best for: Sensitive, reactive, post-treatment skin.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milk Cleanser; CloudBarrier Moisturizer
FYI: Often listed as extract or isolated actives (madecassoside, asiatic acid). Look for named fractions like these.
Skin-identical lipids
What it is: Lipids naturally found in the skin barrier.
What it does: “Mortar” between skin cells—reduces water loss, eases tightness, and helps skin react less to external stress.
Best for: Dry, compromised, over-exfoliated skin.
In SADE: CloudBarrier
FYI: Works best with cholesterol + fatty acids (the “barrier trio”).
Hyaluronic Acid (various weights)
What it is: A water-binding sugar molecule that occurs naturally in skin.
What it does: Attracts and holds moisture in the outer layers so skin looks plumper and feels cushioned. Multi-weight forms hydrate at and just below the surface, improving slip without greasiness and enhancing the comfort of moisturizers and SPF layered on top.
Best for: Dehydration, fine surface lines, tight/rough feel.
In SADE: CloudBarrier; RiceWhip Milky Cleanser
FYI: Works best sealed with emollients (e.g., squalane, ceramides) to keep the water it attracts.
Pro-Vitamin B5
What it is: A moisture-binding vitamin that converts to pantothenic acid in skin.
What it does: Attracts and holds water to relieve tightness after cleansing, helps calm the feel of irritation, and supports the barrier so skin stays soft and comfortable.
Best for: Dry, sensitive, stressed skin.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser
FYI: Layers well with niacinamide, ceramides, and peptides.
What it is: A stable, lightweight oil that mimics skin’s natural lipids.
What it does: Softens and smooths without greasiness, reduces moisture loss by reinforcing the surface lipid layer, and absorbs quickly under SPF and makeup.
Best for: Dry, tight, flaky textures; post-actives comfort.
In SADE: CloudBarrier
FYI: Non-comedogenic for most and friendly to humid or dry climates.
Soothing
What it is: A classic comfort ingredient used in gentle care formulas.
What it does: Softens rough or stressed areas and eases the sensation of irritation, helping skin look smoother and more even from the first uses.
Best for: Sensitivity, post-shave, wind/sun exposure.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser
FYI: Pairs well with acids/retinoids to make routines feel kinder.
Copper Peptide
What it is: A complex of the tripeptide GHK and copper.
What it does: Supports a firmer, bouncier look over time; helps skin feel resilient.
Best for: Early aging signs, dullness, loss of bounce.
In SADE: Future peptide concepts.
FYI: AM/PM; avoid layering the same night with strong acids + pure L-ascorbic if you’re reactive. FYI: Often works best in simple, water-gel bases.
Encapsulated Retinal
What it is: A vitamin A form one step away from retinoic acid; encapsulation improves stability.
What it does: Visibly smooths texture, helps even tone, and supports a firmer look faster than retinol for many users.
Best for: Texture, fine lines, uneven tone (non-pregnant, non-nursing).
In SADE: Retinoid exploration roadmap.
FYI: Encapsulation can reduce sting but doesn’t remove photosensitivity risk.
PDRN
What it is: DNA fragments (usually salmon-derived) used in topical cosmetics and skin boosters.
What it does: Helps skin feel soothed and well-hydrated; supports the look of bounce and post-stress comfort.
Best for: Dehydrated, travel-tired, post-procedure* (once cleared by clinician), dullness.
In SADE: Not currently in lineup; candidate for future “recovery” SKUs.
FYI: Patch test; avoid if fish allergy. Works well with humectants and lipids. Source/grade and % matter for results; topical outcomes vary.
Titanium Oxide; mineral UV filter
What it is: A gentle mineral sunscreen active focused on UVB and short-UVA.
What it does: Shields skin from burning rays and complements zinc oxide for full coverage, making mineral-only sunscreens more effective and comfortable.
Best for: Sensitive skin; mineral-only SPF preference.
In SADE: Glow Veil SPF 50 PA++++
FYI: Starts working as soon as it’s applied.
Mineral/physical UV filter
What it is: An inert mineral sunscreen active that protects across UVA + UVB.
What it does: Provides immediate broad-spectrum protection (no activation time), is generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin, and can visually diffuse redness.
Best for: Daily protection; reactive or post-treatment skin.
In SADE: Glow Veil SPF 50 PA++++
FYI: We formulate for a sheer, comfortable finish to minimize white cast.
Vitamin E
What it is: A lipid-friendly antioxidant naturally found in skin and plant oils.
What it does: Helps neutralize free radicals from UV/pollution, supports the stability of oils in a formula, and leaves skin feeling conditioned—great alongside SPF and vitamin C.
Best for: Daily defense, normal-to-dry skin.
In SADE: CloudBarrier; Glow Veil SPF 50 PA++++
FYI: Especially nice in climates with high sun or pollution exposure.
Humectant
What it is: The gold-standard water magnet.
What it does: Draws and holds moisture in the outer layers so skin stays comfortably hydrated and springy through the day.
Best for: All skin types, dehydration.
In SADE: RiceWhip; CloudBarrier; Glow Veil SPF 50+
FYI: Performs across climates, from humid to dry.
Colloidal oat family
What it is: A creamy extract rich in beta-glucans and avenanthramides.
What it does: Eases the feel of itchiness and tightness, adds soft hydration, and helps skin look calm and balanced—ideal after cleansing.
Best for: Dry, sensitive, easily irritated skin.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser
Rice bran/ferment derivatives
What it is: A milky-soft botanical rich in sugars, amino acids, and antioxidants.
What it does: Cushions skin with calm hydration and helps the complexion look more even and luminous over time—comfort without sting.
Best for: Dullness, dehydration, gentle daily use.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser
Peptides
What it is: Short chains of amino acids that act as messengers.
What it does: Help signal skin to support its own proteins and lipids; with consistent use, skin feels better hydrated, smoother, and more resilient.
Best for: Early fine lines, dryness, barrier support.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser (peptide-supportive concept) / CloudBarrier
FYI: Benefits accumulate with daily use.
Chamomile active
What it is: A calming component from chamomile/ Candeia tree.
What it does: Reduces the look/feel of irritation from actives or weather, helping skin appear more even and comfortable.
Best for: Easily red, reactive skin; active-heavy routines.
In SADE: RiceWhip Milky Cleanser / CloudBarrier
FYI: Great partner to madecassoside and panthenol
Extremolyte; Stress-protection molecule
What it is: A small natural molecule made by extremophile microorganisms to survive heat, UV, and high-salinity stress. It helps stabilize water around cells and supports protein/lipid structures.
What it does: Boosts skin’s ability to hold moisture, reduces the look of redness from environmental stress (sun, heat, pollution), and helps defend the barrier against dehydration during travel or climate swings. Can make daily SPF routines feel more comfortable by calming post-sun tightness.
Best for: Dehydration, sensitivity, urban exposure, frequent travelers, hot/dry or hot/humid climates.
In SADE: Glow Veil SPF50 PA++++
FYI: Plays nicely with mineral sunscreens, niacinamide, and antioxidants; great in day creams/SPFs for “commute and climate” protection.
Vitamin C
What it is: A powerhouse antioxidant.
What it does: Helps defend against environmental stress, supports a brighter, more even look, and complements sunscreen for daytime protection.
Best for: Dullness, uneven tone, urban exposure.
In SADE: -
FYI: Pure ascorbic acid prefers low-pH, opaque/air-tight packaging.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
What it is: Water-soluble exfoliants that loosen dead surface cells.
What it does: Smooths texture, brightens dull tone, and helps other products absorb better by clearing away buildup.
Best for: Rough texture, dullness, photo-damage (non-sensitive types).
In SADE: -
FYI: Daily SPF is essential; start low/slow if new to acids.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
What it is: Oil-soluble exfoliant that can work inside pores.
What it does: Helps clear buildup that leads to congestion, refines the look of pores and smooths texture with less flaking than many scrubs.
Best for: Oily/combination, blackheads, clogged pores.
In SADE: -
FYI: Use with SPF; introduce gradually.
What it is: A dicarboxylic acid used for tone irregularities.
What it does: Visibly calms redness and helps reduce the look of spots and uneven texture while remaining gentle compared with many actives.
Best for: Redness-prone, uneven tone, bumpiness.
In SADE: -
FYI: Often well-tolerated alongside niacinamide.
Oat/yeast polysaccharides
What it is: A cushioning humectant from oats/yeast.
What it does: Pulls in water with a gel-like feel, visibly plumps fine lines, and helps the barrier feel calmer and more resilient—like HA’s soothing best friend.
Best for: Dehydration, sensitivity, post-treatment comfort.
In SADE: -
FYI: Layers well under emollients to “lock in” moisture.
Collagen
What it is: Collagen broken into smaller fragments for topical use.
What it does: Attracts water to the surface for a smoother, more cushioned feel; helps skin feel supple, especially in dry climates.
Best for: Dryness, tightness, makeup prep.
In SADE: -
FYI: Topical collagen mainly hydrates; it doesn’t replace your own collagen like injectables do
Green Tea Extract (EGCG-rich extract)
What it is: An antioxidant-packed plant extract.
What it does: Helps neutralize free-radical damage from pollution/UV and quietly reduces redness, keeping skin looking fresh through the day.
Best for: City exposure, dullness, easy flushing.
In SADE: -
FYI: Works beautifully beside SPF and vitamin C.
Jojoba Oil (Liquid wax ester)
What it is: A skin-mimicking oil (technically a wax).
What it does: Softens and smooths without greasiness, helps prevent moisture loss, and balances the feel of oilier areas.
Best for: Combination, dehydrated-oily, flaky patches.
In SADE: Silk Lip Melt, Lip Scrub Balm
Vitamin A
What it is: A vitamin A derivative used for visible renewal.
What it does: Speeds up surface turnover for smoother texture and a more even look; a gold standard for fine lines.
Best for: Photo-damage, uneven texture (non-sensitive, acclimated users).
In SADE: -
FYI: Start slowly; always pair with moisturizer + daily SPF.
Vegan wax
What it is: A plant wax that structures balms.
What it does: Seals in moisture with a soft sheen and helps lip/skin balms stay put—without the heaviness of some waxes.
Best for: Lips, dry patches, windy/cold climates.
In SADE: Silk Lip Melt, Lip Scrub Balm
FYI: Our vegan alternative to beeswax.
Centella active
What it is: A purified molecule from Centella asiatica.
What it does: Targets visible redness and irritation while reinforcing the moisture barrier so skin bounces back faster after stress.
Best for: Redness-prone, reactive skin; active users.
In SADE: CloudBarrier
FYI: Pairs well with bisabolol and panthenol.
Licorice
What it is: A soothing, tone-evening botanical rich in glycyrrhizin and flavonoids.
What it does: Helps calm visible redness and supports a more even-looking tone; complements brightening routines.
Best for: Sensitive, redness-prone; dullness, post-blemish marks, uneven tone.
In SADE: Tone-care and calming blends.
FYI: Generally low-irritation; patch test if pollen/plant-sensitive.
What it is: Amino-acid derivative used for appearance of discoloration.
What it does: Targets look of dark spots and patchy tone from sun/pollution.
Best for: All skin types; melasma-prone, PIH, uneven tone.
In SADE: City-protection and brightening routines.
FYI: AM/PM; always wear SPF in daytime. Plays nicely with niacinamide, licorice; avoid layering with strong acids if easily irritated.
What it is: Water-soluble azelaic derivative.
What it does: Balances oil, refines look of pores, improves clarity with less dryness.
Best for: Combination–oily, uneven tone, visible pores, texture.
In SADE: Lightweight correctors and gel creams.
FYI: Layer under moisturizer; compatible with niacinamide. Gentler vs classic azelaic acid; still patch test if reactive.
PHA
What it is: Gentle chemical exfoliant with humectant properties.
What it does: Smooths texture and boosts surface radiance while drawing moisture.
Best for: Dry, sensitive, barrier-aware; dullness, roughness.
In SADE: Soft-polish formulas and milky toners.
FYI: Start 2–4×/week; SPF by day. Often better tolerated than AHAs; good in AC/flight routines.
LHA
What it is: Lipophilic BHA derivative that penetrates slowly.
What it does: argets congestion and roughness with low sting; refines look of pores.
Best for: Oily, combination; blackheads, texture, T-zone shine.
In SADE: Clarifying spot/tone care.
FYI: Patch test; avoid with strong BHAs same night. Oil-loving—great in humid climates.
What it is: Zinc salt of PCA (natural moisturizing factor).
What it does: Helps regulate shine while supporting hydration.
Best for: Oily, acne-prone, combination; midday shine.
In SADE: Balancing hydrators.
FYI: Daily in serums/gel moisturizers. Non-drying alternative to classic mattifiers.
What it is: “Water-lock” disaccharide humectant.
What it does: Binds moisture and cushions skin through flights, AC, and temp swings.
Best for: Dehydrated, travel-tired, tight-feeling skin.
In SADE: Hydrating bases and cleansers.
FYI: Layer with HA/glycerin; seal with emollients. Helps textures feel comfortable without stickiness.
